Samurai Jeans S3100VX 17oz ZERO Plus Bushido Denim | wide relax straight

1. The Silhouette: Wide Straight (WWII Cut)

• The S3100VX is a reproduction of the 1940s "Great War" fit. It is significantly wider than modern standard straight cuts (like the S710XX or S0511XX).
• Fit Category: Relaxed Wide Straight.
• Rise: High Rise. It sits comfortably at or slightly above the natural waist.
• Top Block (Hips/Seat): Very Spacious. The yoke and seat are cut with ample room, making this an excellent choice for lifters or those with athletic thighs who find standard jeans too tight in the hips.
• Thigh: Wide. The leg remains full immediately from the crotch down.
• Leg & Hem: Straight Fall. There is almost no taper. The leg falls vertically from the knee to the hem, resulting in a wide leg opening (approx. 9"–10" on average sizes) that works best with boots or chunky sneakers.

2. Sizing & Shrinkage Advice

• The 17oz "Zero+" denim is Unsanforized. However, most retailers sell this specific model as "One-Wash" (Rinsed).
• If buying "One-Wash" (Pre-rinsed):
• Sizing: This model runs slightly small in the waist due to the intense shrinkage of the Zero+ fabric during the factory rinse.
• Recommendation: Size Up +1 from your standard vanity size. (e.g., If you usually wear a 32 in other brands, buy a 33).
• Stretch: Expect the waist to stretch back out approximately 1 inch (2.5cm) with 30 days of wear.

• 17oz Zero+ selvedge denim
• 36" Length
• slubby yarn denim bag cloth
• reddish brown iron pine buttons
• copper SAMURAI CO rivets
• exclusive flasher and leather patch
• initial serial number included
• high rise, slightly wide straight fit
• made in Osaka, Japan 

Production Journey: The Making of the S3100VX

1. Spinning: The "No. 5" Uneven Yarn The character of the S3100VX begins before the weaving starts. Samurai uses a custom-spun No. 5 cotton yarn for both the warp (vertical) and weft (horizontal) threads.

• The Detail: Standard heavy denim might use a smoother No. 6 or No. 7 yarn. By using a thicker, highly irregular No. 5 "slub" yarn, Samurai ensures the fabric will have a bumpy, "snowy" texture that cannot be replicated by modern computerized spinning.

2. Dyeing: Rope-Dyed Indigo The warp yarns are rope-dyed with 100% pure indigo.

• The Process: The yarns are bundled into "ropes" and dipped into indigo vats, then pulled out to oxidize (turn blue). This is repeated multiple times.

• The Result: Because the yarns are dipped and not soaked, the indigo does not penetrate to the center of the thread. The core remains white. This is the secret to the "electric blue" fades—as the indigo chips off the rough surface, the white core is revealed.

3. Weaving: Low-Tension "Loom Chatter" The dyed yarns are loaded onto vintage shuttle looms (likely Toyoda or similar Showa-era machines) in Okayama.

• The Technique: The looms are set to an extremely low tension. This is risky because it can cause the machines to break, but it allows the thick No. 5 yarns to "dance" during the weaving process.

• Loom Chatter: The vibration of the vintage wooden shuttles creates what is known as "loom chatter"—micro-imperfections and roughness on the fabric surface. This creates the "crunchy" feel that Samurai is famous for.

4. Assembly: Vintage Sewing Machines The jeans are constructed using 100% cotton thread rather than the stronger (but less authentic) poly-core thread used by most modern brands.

• The Machines: Key areas like the hem and waistband are stitched on vintage Union Special machines to create the "roping" effect (the crinkled pattern at the hem).

• Aging: Because the thread is 100% cotton, it will fade, shrink, and eventually break over time, just like a vintage pair from the 1940s.

5. Finishing: "Tenpi-Boshi" (Sun Drying) Most of the S3100VX stock is "One-Wash," but Samurai often uses a special finishing method.

• The Method: After the factory rinse, the jeans are often hung outside to sun dry (Tenpi-boshi) rather than being tossed in an industrial dryer.

• The Texture: This slow drying process shrinks the denim to its final size while preserving the stiff, dry, and "crispy" texture of the cotton.